Селяни
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Селяни
People in England have had some difficulty getting used to the idea and the benefits of at least one lightweight suit in their wardrobe," explains Jeremy Hackett, chairman of the eponymous gent's outfitters. "Perhaps they don't trust a lightweight suit to soak up the perspiration quite as well. They won't put away their 15 and 16oz worsted until it is at least 75-80 degrees outside."
And at that point, they just default to the white or bone-coloured linen suit - popular with men comfortably over the age of 30 who secretly believe they are fulfilling some Graham Greene-imagined aspect of their being.
The problem is that an ivory linen suit looks great in films about the mid-twentieth-century, where colonial laundries are on hand to iron out the creases. But after one hour on a middle-class male, the same suit will look as though it has been slept in for a month.
"Going back to the old days of the Raj when the lightest weight cloth you had was about an 11 or 12oz, one relied on heat being reflected by a paler colour," says Terry Haste of Savile Row tailor Huntsman, by way of explaining the Englishman's atavistic hankering for the pale suit. Typical of the colonial anomalies of old was a fabric called solaro, or Indian twill, a slightly iridescent fawn-coloured material, often with a herringbone pattern.
However, the cloths of Britain's imperial past have now been overtaken by the fabric-milling techniques of Italy. Ermenegildo Zegna caused a sensation in the 1980s when it introduced the so-called high performance wools, using fine high-twist yarns that made a cool, crease-resistant fabric.
These are now a fact of life in the summer, so while Haste still keeps a few lengths of heavy linen and solaro for Huntsman's more traditional customers, most of the summer suits he makes use high-twist fabrics. "We have been working with this new super 130 high-twist fabric that we've found to be wonderfully resilient when it comes to creases and an absolute dream to wear in the heat," he says.
Certainly Umberto Angeloni, chief executive of Brioni, is a lightweight weave partisan; one of his favourite summer fabrics is made by Loro Piana and called Vati cano, or Priests' Cloth. "They say that they use it in the Vatican for the priests' cloaks, but for upper echelons of the clergy, so we should really call it the cardinal's or the bishop's cloth," says Angeloni. "It is for their summer garments and it is incredibly light."
Not that you have to swear allegiance to Rome to wear a Brioni suit in Vaticano cloth. "They make it in 50 or 60 variations of colour," says Angeloni, who is currently experimenting with a totally unlined but fully tailored jacket. "I am calling it Panarea, after an island off the Sicilian coast. It has to be extremely light in construction, absolutely no padding, unlined, but with every other feature of the handmade jacket."
Meanwhile, back on Savile Row, Carlo Brandelli has also been toying with the quarter-lined or buggy-backed suit to create what Kilgour French Stanbury, tailor to the Lock Stock generation, is calling the "skeleton suit". Brandelli's style has caught the eye of GQ magazine editor Dylan Jones, who wears lightweight suits by Kilgour French Stanbury and is himself experimenting with seersucker.
"I am big fan of seersucker," says Jones, his enthusiasm vindicated by previews of next year's men's wear. "At the spring summer 2004 collections, seersucker was much in evidence, and not just with the traditional pale blue stripe but with pink, yellow and even a white self stripe - subtle but chic."
Even if you end up in high-twist and seersucker, however, it will all be for nought with the wrong choice in subsidiary garments. Bespoke voile shirts made by an experienced shirtmaker - say Charvet on the Place Vendome, Budd, Turnbull & Asser or David Gale at Dunhill - are the ultimate in no-sweat underpinning, but Jones says it is perfectly acceptable to wear a fine gauge V-necked T-shirt with a lightweight suit when temperatures start creeping over 30°C.
And yes, it is all right to go sockless - provided your ankles are at least lightly tanned.
And at that point, they just default to the white or bone-coloured linen suit - popular with men comfortably over the age of 30 who secretly believe they are fulfilling some Graham Greene-imagined aspect of their being.
The problem is that an ivory linen suit looks great in films about the mid-twentieth-century, where colonial laundries are on hand to iron out the creases. But after one hour on a middle-class male, the same suit will look as though it has been slept in for a month.
"Going back to the old days of the Raj when the lightest weight cloth you had was about an 11 or 12oz, one relied on heat being reflected by a paler colour," says Terry Haste of Savile Row tailor Huntsman, by way of explaining the Englishman's atavistic hankering for the pale suit. Typical of the colonial anomalies of old was a fabric called solaro, or Indian twill, a slightly iridescent fawn-coloured material, often with a herringbone pattern.
However, the cloths of Britain's imperial past have now been overtaken by the fabric-milling techniques of Italy. Ermenegildo Zegna caused a sensation in the 1980s when it introduced the so-called high performance wools, using fine high-twist yarns that made a cool, crease-resistant fabric.
These are now a fact of life in the summer, so while Haste still keeps a few lengths of heavy linen and solaro for Huntsman's more traditional customers, most of the summer suits he makes use high-twist fabrics. "We have been working with this new super 130 high-twist fabric that we've found to be wonderfully resilient when it comes to creases and an absolute dream to wear in the heat," he says.
Certainly Umberto Angeloni, chief executive of Brioni, is a lightweight weave partisan; one of his favourite summer fabrics is made by Loro Piana and called Vati cano, or Priests' Cloth. "They say that they use it in the Vatican for the priests' cloaks, but for upper echelons of the clergy, so we should really call it the cardinal's or the bishop's cloth," says Angeloni. "It is for their summer garments and it is incredibly light."
Not that you have to swear allegiance to Rome to wear a Brioni suit in Vaticano cloth. "They make it in 50 or 60 variations of colour," says Angeloni, who is currently experimenting with a totally unlined but fully tailored jacket. "I am calling it Panarea, after an island off the Sicilian coast. It has to be extremely light in construction, absolutely no padding, unlined, but with every other feature of the handmade jacket."
Meanwhile, back on Savile Row, Carlo Brandelli has also been toying with the quarter-lined or buggy-backed suit to create what Kilgour French Stanbury, tailor to the Lock Stock generation, is calling the "skeleton suit". Brandelli's style has caught the eye of GQ magazine editor Dylan Jones, who wears lightweight suits by Kilgour French Stanbury and is himself experimenting with seersucker.
"I am big fan of seersucker," says Jones, his enthusiasm vindicated by previews of next year's men's wear. "At the spring summer 2004 collections, seersucker was much in evidence, and not just with the traditional pale blue stripe but with pink, yellow and even a white self stripe - subtle but chic."
Even if you end up in high-twist and seersucker, however, it will all be for nought with the wrong choice in subsidiary garments. Bespoke voile shirts made by an experienced shirtmaker - say Charvet on the Place Vendome, Budd, Turnbull & Asser or David Gale at Dunhill - are the ultimate in no-sweat underpinning, but Jones says it is perfectly acceptable to wear a fine gauge V-necked T-shirt with a lightweight suit when temperatures start creeping over 30°C.
And yes, it is all right to go sockless - provided your ankles are at least lightly tanned.
Re: Лупо:)
Къде си се разбързал, тва след години ще става.
Днес реших да не се женя ами само да си подбера достойна мацка (хубава генетика, мозък) за да ми роди едно дете и да намеря друга за още едно и след тва гаджетата ми да помагат да ги отглеждам. Така децата ми ще гледат повече цирк.
Днес реших да не се женя ами само да си подбера достойна мацка (хубава генетика, мозък) за да ми роди едно дете и да намеря друга за още едно и след тва гаджетата ми да помагат да ги отглеждам. Така децата ми ще гледат повече цирк.
жив и здрав:)
а
и желанието/идеята... продължи-рода:)
скивам че крепи хоризонта т.е. парабулата на мечтите гони правата
т.е. мозък и ген не и липсват
а
дарба на отглеждане;)
та...бъди всичко повече от здраве, когато, ти си пожелаеш ДЕТЕ:)
(не ми се сърди) с най-добри чувства
и желанието/идеята... продължи-рода:)
скивам че крепи хоризонта т.е. парабулата на мечтите гони правата
т.е. мозък и ген не и липсват
а
дарба на отглеждане;)
та...бъди всичко повече от здраве, когато, ти си пожелаеш ДЕТЕ:)
(не ми се сърди) с най-добри чувства